Monday, January 17, 2011

39 days...

This is what Caro just sent me in a text when I was enjoying my cabbage salad, alone, while doing some self-reflecting and simultaneously watching some Bollywood on TV, at the Shake and Stir restaurant today. Bad idea.

Why not rub salt in the wound a little more? Okay! So, C and I (at work with no internet, in other words not much to do ie no Facebook to be crept I mean uhhhh HIV education documents to be researched…) decided it would be a good idea to read Anthony and Claire’s (interns from 2010 and 2009, respectively) final blogs/final reports to the Coady, just for kicks. ‘Masochists’, C said after we finished this little activity. Too strong of an adjective? Not far off. Why on earth would two people, in already-delicate emotional states, read about the feelings that may or may not be coming for them in the near future, head-on, full force? I don’t know. Maybe we think it’s easier if we somehow prep ourselves in advance for this departure. I sincerely don’t think there is any way to prepare ourselves to be thrown back into Canadian reality though, what-with the StFX university scene, the wealth of Tim Hortons’ in Antigonish, the SNOW (!), the warm water, the running water in general, the lack of dirt-bikes as taxis, the lack of black people and the abundance of white people, among many, many other things, of course.

BUT it is far too soon to be speaking of such matters, am I right? If you think these thoughts are weird, check in when there’s only a week left of me being here and THEN we’ll see what CRAZY shit I start to write about.

Last week I saw history made. I watched as the U17 Rwandese football team beat tournament favourites-Egypt at the Confederation of African Football (CAF) U17 tourney, which earned them a spot in the semi-finals and as it happens, also to the country’s first ever representation at a FIFA World Cup which is going to be in Mexico in June. I watched the game at the stadium in our ‘hood’ of Nyamirambo, which is a much smaller, more intimate venue than Amahoro Stadium (which seats about 35,000 people and served as a refuge for as many as 12,000 people, mostly Tutsis, during the genocide). It was even closer to home because I watched the match with Emery, who was on the team in 2008 and then on the U20 team in 2009 (he’s 24 right now, you do the math…haha something isn’t right.), when in both tournaments, the teams missed making it to the World Cup by a single goal. I have experienced being THAT close countless times over the years, on every single Nelson/LVR team (sorry Keith and Mr. Simpson), probably at least once in every single tournament, except Revelstoke (wooo!), but never were the stakes this high.

After the team of ‘youngsters’ was done running around the field and jumping on the fences to thank the blue, yellow and green-clad fans, after all the vuvuzela-toting drunkards (due to Primus or excitement, still not sure) were making their way out of the stadium, spilling onto the streets of Nyamirambo, I said to Emery:
‘Okay, on y va?’ Let’s go?
‘Attends un peu.’ Wait a minute.
I only then looked over at him after hearing a tremble in his voice. His eyes were glossy. This was undoubtedly due to the pride that only a fellow football player could feel for his ‘little brothers’. I would be lying if I said that I didn’t get teary-eyed at the display of national pride before the match, which was the first time I had ever heard the national anthem, with everyone in the crowd around me belting out the words in Kinyarwanda. After the game, this is what I imagine it felt like in Vancouver/Montreal/any big Canadian city during the Olympics after Crosby scored the game winner in OT for the gold, only that was on a way bigger scale with much more booze involved. Too bad on that fateful February day in 2010, I was in the Mitsubishi in the middle of nowhere, Newfoundland, waiting for my brother Chad in Toronto and sister Sydney in Nelson to call me with the play-by-play, all the while Telus going in and out of service (go figure). Clearly I am thankful I didn’t miss out on the big deal this time. Not a feeling a washed-up football player like myself gets to experience very often.

Un fanatique fou.

Game time.
Speaking of being a washed-up football player, I decided to use my Nelson Youth Soccer connections to get me a bunch of jerseys, some cleats and balls, to bring to Rwanda to give to a team or two here. Julien Cormier was great enough to hook me up with all of this stuff, so here it came, in a huge duffle bag that even made it to Kigali after being ‘lost’ at London’s Heathrow Airport. So after Emery made a call (because everyone has EVERYONE’S cell phone number, somehow, in Rwanda, even mine..) last Wednesday, a group of about thirty young men were excited at the prospect that:
a) a muzungu showed up to their practice, willing to play,
b) she had a bunch of jerseys with her, and
c) she showed up with another muzungu and, even more importantly, a dude that plays on the national football team.
After a game with too-many players per side on a dirt field, them forcing me to take the game’s lone penalty kick (I missed.. ugh), and of course some laughs when one of the players threw his weight and elbows around, not knowing that it was the muzungu girl behind him challenging him for the ball, these boys had sweat in these jerseys so much that they had made them their own. Great success. They had a few laughs trying to figure out what ‘All Hit KBS’ meant, but no such trouble with the international Rotary symbol. Pretty cool that every so often at practice, some of these guys will be wearing a little piece of Nelson. Seems like just a tiny, miniscule thing I, thanks to Nelson Youth Soccer, could’ve done for this team from a country and a football community that has contributed so much to my experience in East Africa.
Quite muscular young men sporting these NYS jerseys

Spot the woman

Roster shot.

Me and the rival keeper
 Love L

Monday, January 10, 2011

Is this real life?

Doesn't feel like it.

Caro and I were just talking about how, being here, it feels like we have no responsibility which is not a typical feeling you get during everyday life in Canada. Even as a students, who are notorious for having no responsibility, especially in the bubble StFX had us in, there were meetings, deadlines, and endless readings that could have been (but weren't) done. There were always people relying and depending on you as the president or co-president of a society or club, and you couldn't mess that shit up. Here, though, we are living the life. Yes, there are things that need to be done at work, but in typical Rwandese fashion, we are not held accountable if they don't get done (they always do though, don't worry CIDA). Self motivation is a KEY quality to possess here.

Why does it feel like I have no responsibility? Well other than rent, there are no bills to pay. We just went on a 2 week vacation to the most stunning island I'll probably ever see in my life. I get to watch football whenever I want, live or at a bar on TV while enjoying a Primus. I can forget about work after I leave KHI for the day. I can go to bed at 9 PM and wake up at 5 AM without having any problems sleeping because there are not many worries to be had here. I can go dancing until 5 in the morning knowing that all I have to do the next day is go for a run and go to the market, or maybe study for the MCAT (ugh). We can go to countries such as Uganda and Burundi in a moment's notice. After these six months, I can just leave my job, be done with it, and never turn back.


Penda (Photo cred to Afrony/Ravi)
It isn't that easy though. The 'responsibility' lies in the fact that I have made relationships with people here that are irreplaceable. And that no matter how hard I try to forget how painful it will be leaving these people, I won't be able to forget. I have a 'responsibility' to keep in touch with these people that have changed my life, and in some shape or form I hopefully have changed theirs a little. Penda, one of my co-workers, almost brought me to tears at work the other day, which is a surprisingly hard thing to do. "You, Caroline, Anthony, Ravi, you guys come for such a short time. Only six months. I can never forget the times we share." It's not often that people outside of my family open up to me like that at home, one of the countless differences between Canadians and Rwandese.
Our moving 'hotel room'.



Sarah and I at sunset, thanks SarahENGLISH
New Years Eve! A lot of food and BYOB
Although our trip to Zanzibar was full of so many laughs, swimming in the Indian Ocean, severe skin burns from falling asleep in the sun (never again), Christmas cards and presents from home, being so hot at night it was difficult to sleep, sleeping in an 8-person dorm room for a week with the closest bathroom a 2 minute walk away, a 30-hour bus ride and a subsequent 3-hour plane ride (we couldn't hack the bus for a second time, being in a 100 degree angle-position for 30 hours except for a total of 20 minutes of standing is as unpleasant as it sounds. Maybe even more so.), eating Indian food for Christmas dinner, eating a ton of the best seafood you'll ever have for ridiculously low prices, ordering a meal from a restaurant in which the description read "schirr-fried beef with vegetables in a bum" (who WOULDN'T order that? I could never pass up schirr-fried meat, even if it wasn't served in a bum.), meeting some really cool Rastas, and so much more, I must say I was looking so forward to coming home to Kigali. While we were away, when people asked, and even when they didn't, we told them that Kigali doesn't have much to offer compared to what we've heard about other African cities.
Beach at Kendwa Rocks

Stonetown art. Every shop keeper says that he painted the art,
so why are all the paintings the same? LIES
The truth is when you get below the surface and see the unconditional hospitality these people have, I take all those comments back. It may not be the most lively city for travelers, but it isn't all about what, but more about WHO, is around you. It felt good to come back to the smell of eucalyptus, the public displays of affection between friends (same and opposite sex, alike), the children yelling Muzungu! Muzungu!, the strangers asking for your phone number every time you go in public, the language that we can understand twenty words in as opposed to our four words of Swahili (however it's true, asante sana (thank you very much) goes a long way) and of course the people at KHI and other people I have become close with.

Anyways. I'm getting all emo n' stuff because 7 weeks left is just not enough. I had possibly the best weekend I could have had. I learned to cook in the Rwandese way, got to spend time with the people I love, and got to watch some national team football. My mom gave me some great advice yesterday, saying that I have to enjoy everything while I'm here, and not get bogged down in the emotions of our imminent departure. That just wastes time. So, in light of her wise words, I'm off to go buy fabric to get African clothing made, and to play football with my keeper boyzzz.
Me and Nadege cooking (she made me wear this kanga (skirt), I think just
because it was funny and looked sooo out of place on this ginger)
I was SO much more inefficient than her. No peeler or cutting
board, what a novel idea!

Le produit finale.
Me and the fam pre-stuffing our faces.

Me, Sarah and Caro wearing our Rwandese clothing with the boys. Yes,
my friend Patrick is wearing a YES WE CAN T-shirt complete with giant
picture of a thumbs up from Obama and gold sparkles.
Love from across the pond,
Lauren

Friday, January 7, 2011

Zanzibar... Paradise.

I will elaborate more about my holidays when work quiets down a bit, but for now feast your eyes on these (for all of you computer illiterate folk, you can click on the pictures to make them bigger) :
Narrow Streets of Stonetown.


Kendwa Rocks, at the northern tip of Zanzibar Island

BARBEQUE DREAMLAND!!!!! Formally known as Forodhani Gardens until we rolled into Stonetown...

Celebrating NYE in sweaty-style. Me, Sarah and Caro (Caro's clearly being the jokester she is)

Kendwa and the Indian Ocean!

View from the restaurant at dusk

So clearly I recommend that ANYONE who has the chance to go to this place, GO. I would say that JUST because of the seafood itself, however, as you can see, there was a littleeee bit more than that to offer.

Hope everyone had a safe and happy New Year :) Thanks to everyone for keeping in touch during what was a strange (read: in a good way, just different) but unforgettable holiday season. So thankful for everything. Missing all of you and can't believe there are less than 2 months until I get back!?! Surreal is alls I can say.

Love L

PS Check out a couple of Ravi's (the intern who was here in Caroline's position before we got here) last blog posts. I share a lot of his sentiments but am nowhere near as articulate as him so I really enjoy reading them.
http://ravijaipaul.blogspot.com/2010/12/dreams-reality.html
http://ravijaipaul.blogspot.com/2011/01/it-begins-end.html